3D printing is an excellent course of, however for conference and present prepared prints, some post-processing could also be mandatory. Study some useful methods from our resident cosplayer to show even probably the most polygonal mannequin right into a easy masterpiece.
Posted on December 9, 2016
by
Alec Richter
Should you’ve been following alongside on this sequence of articles (Learn how to Deliver Video Sport Characters to Life and How To Clean & End Your PLA Prints – Half 1), you might have seen some methods to easy out and take away the striations you get from a 3D printing. However what in case your authentic mannequin is considerably extra polygonal and faceted than the meant form? If in case you have a print that appears like this Soldier 76 masks, there are two other ways to resolve this drawback: utilizing Bondo physique filler after printing, or earlier than printing by modifying the mannequin with a modeling software program of your alternative. On this article, we shall be exploring the previous.
Even with the roughest mannequin, you may make some unimaginable completed prints.
With none elbow grease.
Supplies
- Bondo Physique filler with included hardener
Private Protecting Tools: gloves, respirator, mud masks
Mixing Palette: leftover silicone from molding, items of cardboard,
Spreaders: either precise bondo spreaders, strips of plastic scrap, or skinny scrap prints
Sandpaper: 120, 220, 400, 800, wax polish, and wax sponge
Primer and Paint
Non-obligatory: Dremel and bits, xacto knife
Step 1: Security First
First issues first, put in your rubber gloves and your respirator. To some, the scent will not be too unhealthy, however after a sequence of intense complications after mixing some small quantities of Bondo, I extremely advocate reconsidering and placing in your PPE.
Step 2: Divide and Conquer
Begin by choosing one part of your 3D print and specializing in that part with every spherical of Bondo. On this case, I’ve centered on rounding out the tip of the hoses on the masks. By specializing in one part at a time, it’s a lot simpler to see the assorted edges of the print that would simply get misplaced by including an excessive amount of Bondo at a time. With extra talent, you’ll be able to apply Bondo to 1 floor and if time permits apply to a different floor additional away on the print, this can assist velocity up the method however you run the danger of the Bondo drying as you unfold it, leaving you with a clumpy mess.
Completely blended and previous its prime.
Step 3: Combine it Up
Collect your palette and your spreaders of varied sizes, to combine up small batches of Bondo at a time. You’ll wish to begin with small batches as a result of the Bondo begins drying, or curing, as quickly as you pour out the hardener. You need to use one golf ball sized lump of Bondo with one inch of hardener. Bizarre combine ratio, I do know, but it surely’s what’s beneficial and what works the most effective. The quantity of hardener you must use partially depends upon how scorching or chilly it’s the place you might be working; if it’s a scorching day, use barely much less hardener, if it’s chilly, use barely extra. Combine the 2 completely till one constant coloration; it needs to be type of a peachy-tan. If it’s terracotta pink, you used an excessive amount of hardener and it’ll treatment inside 5 minutes, if it’s nonetheless grayish it would by no means treatment.
High Left: a few golf ball sized glob. High Proper: Squirting on an inch of hardener. Backside: Earlier than mixing.
Step 4: Apply On to the Print
Right here’s the half that may take probably the most talent and finesse. That you must discover the correct steadiness of stress to use to your 3D print. An excessive amount of stress and also you’ll simply be squeegeeing Bondo throughout your print and never truly constructing something up, and too little and also you’ll finish with a giant swirly goopy mess. You wish to very rigorously management the place you unfold it out. Whilst you can all the time sand away the place you added an excessive amount of, you don’t wish to make an already prolonged course of even tougher on you. Right here I feather the Bondo throughout the floor of the (part) to construct up between every of the peaks.
Left: tough and polygonal. Proper: easy and spherical.
Step 5: Sanding: “It is coarse and tough and worsening and it will get in all places.”
Whereas the final step took talent and finesse, this step will take time and persistence. Begin with a really low grit sandpaper, 120 is the place I like to begin, and go to city in your print. Bondo is principally a resin and talcum powder, so sanding it away is simple, however it’ll make the most important mess that isn’t actually avoidable. Use small strips of sandpaper and throw them out after they get too gunked up; you’ll truly begin sprucing the Bondo if it’s fully clogged. Should you’re attempting to make a big curve just like the mouth, be mild and cautious to not sand during to the 3D print beneath. It sands in another way from Bondo and gained’t put on away as shortly as the encircling Bondo, leaving you with small peaks.
Discover the peaks between the patches of Bondo, and the beginnings of issues smoothing over.
Step 6: Advert Nauseum
When you’ve gone by one move of making use of Bondo and sanding, you’ll discover some spots that must be constructed up rather a lot or somewhat, so get again to it. Repeat steps 2-5 till you’ve smoothed a piece to your liking. Within the case of the ears, they began as a polyhedron, however at the moment are principally hemispheres, that is what you’ll have to do repeatedly till it’s completed.
Step 7: Non-obligatory: Detailing
Bondo is often utilized in a physique store for automobiles, proper? Properly, identical guidelines apply right here, once you want element formed into the physique filler, it’s greatest to interrupt out one thing with extra management than easy sandpaper. Utilizing a pointy razor or Exacto knife, you’ll be able to carve exact strains into your object, on this case I need some small dimples within the cheeks.
Some dimply cheeks.
For the dimples, I sketched in pencil first, then went again over the road with my razor. Then I might gently whittle away the realm throughout the line to create a dimple. And as soon as I had the essential form of the dimple, I might return over it with sandpaper to easy out the straight edges left behind from the knife and to mix the brand new form in.
Rigorously and gently rating and carve within the nice element
Step 8: Paint and Polish
Congratulations! The laborious half is over. Now all that’s left to sanding finer and finer till there’s a pleasant polish. I began by spraying a primer coat to deliver this helmet into one constant coloration, although it wouldn’t final lengthy. As soon as I had let the paint sit for a pair hours earlier than I obtained again to it, I began by sanding with a 200 grit sandpaper very briefly, shifting as much as 400, and eventually as much as 800. As soon as it was squeaky easy, it was time to damage it as soon as once more: spray in your alternative of gloss to actually make it shine. On this case Rustoleum Gloss Seaside is similar to MatterHackers Blue. Begin sanding once more, however this time use water and 800 grit to actually easy the gloss coat. This can deliver down the “orange peel” that may occur with gloss spray paints. As soon as glad with that, utilizing automotive wax, polish your print, and do that a number of occasions till you it’s so easy it’s slippery, and also you drop the print and break it (significantly don’t drop it, that’s not a enjoyable time).
Left aspect: Freshly primered. Proper aspect: a number of passes with progressively gentler sandpaper.
Step 9: The Hardest Step
The ultimate step is to take a step again, have a look at your handiwork, and name it. It took numerous work, numerous sweat, and numerous mud, however in the long run you go from one thing like this:
The completed product, prepared for molding.
And coming subsequent month: how I outfit the complete workplace with masks. In any case, we’re all troopers now.
